Back Home

Flying from SF was a breeze. We had a fine day, a full speed airport shuttle (if your head was out the window you would have parted your hair permanently) and an uneventful flight to LA and Dunedin through Auckland. Thank you to Dee at SF airport check-in!

Touchdown DUD 2.35 pm Sunday the 18th of December. Immediately you are confronted with the reality of being home and not in that special space 1000's of miles away in a small part of the middle of America: a place where friendships were made and education and life explored. The landscapes of NZL are familiar and varied. People wear shorts - alot. The lawns have to be mowed and a tui calls (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ucvO-gphZng), then a koramiko (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UA7JlTJtJ2U). We were visited by a Kererū (or Kūkupa ) - stripping leaves off a Kōwhai tree for brunch.

Reflective and onward questions to ponder from the Fulbright experience: What does New Zealand look like? Who is a New Zealander? What are they like? How are they seen as different to other people of the world? How should New Zealanders be involved with the world? How might the Fulbright experience become the answer to those questions? 

And what of America itself? I have learnt about meta-cognition during my stay. It helped me think. I uncovered the generosity of the USA, its institutions and its people. I discovered how diverse Americans are: a mix of different races, of the rich and the poor and everyone between, and a mix of many different personal and collective views, lifestyles and religions. I confirmed my imagination from maps of its wonderful landscapes and BIG scale. I was reminded of the importance of universities in creating opportunity for all and open discussion of all by all. I re-affirmed the importance of an existing gap between tertiary institutions and research and best teaching practice in schools. I reaffirmed the need to understand and respect others and not to judge; to be active, but patient, and wait for the outcome that must come from personal realisations alone.

Thank you to the Fulbright Organisation, Fulbright New Zealand, The Fulbright Teachers Network, The US State Department, the International Institute of Education, the University of Indiana at Bloomington and its Faculty staff (Thanks, Curt), the Center for International Education Research and Development (CIEDR). Thank you, Jacob, and staff! Thanks to Margaret and Frank (Bloomington World Wide Friends). Angie and students at BHSN. And thanks to Lisa of Evermann Apartments. A thanks to all of the Americans we met and who shared with us a moment in time: the Caribbean migrant taxi driver (he understood cricket) in DC, the Amish Farmer and POGIL staff in Lancaster PA, the airport security officer at Philadelphia Airport (he knew the All Blacks), my IU students, IU Campus bus drivers (Go Sandra!) and many many more.... A thanks too to the New Zealand Ministry of Education, and Kaikorai Valley College staff and management for supporting my stay. A final thanks to my spouse, Sylvia, for her contribution to me and the lives of all the Fulbrighters.

We look forward to the visit of the USA Fulbrighters in late January 2017. On we go...................

Informal moment from the FDAT Awards Presentation: Indiana Memorial Union Courtyard, Tuesday December 6th 2016

Home: Dunedin City (Ōtepoti) - Upper Harbour Basin - looking west to city center and beyond

At Home: Kererū in Kōwhai Tree

SF City Touring

We had about two days in SF. We went into the city one day and down to the Bay area. We took a bus. The number 31. Oh what an education. We passed through some seedier districts in and out and picked up some real characters along the way. People on the fringe of the community, of hygiene, on the fringe of good health both mental and physical - and some were past the good part already - and some on the fringe of the law. There was swearing and shouting and yet together we all accepted the journey for what it was. There were people of all ages and types: indian, black, latino, chinese, korean, kiwis and white folk from all over. We got the same bus home and the driver this time explained to us that it was likely to get 'a bit colourful'. It was his daily run - the number 31. We met him in the park near the Bay terminal. He was photographing a hawk eating a pigeon it had just killed right next to the bus stop.

He knew many of the people really well and gave a running commentary across the bus intercom. 'You're riding on the Muni folks 'It's better than riding in one of those cars'. 'Your not allowed on the bus - you're smoking' 'The Muni won't let people smoke on the bus - its against the law' 'We'll wait for you, if you hurry up'. The driver helped the old and infirmed on and off the bus with zimmer frames ('Can you people move your seat'. 'He can't walk down the bus'), their washing, and their shopping! What a treat to see this part of American life. It turns out that SF has some 6700 recognised homeless people. Check out this story in the New York Times http://www.nytimes.com/2016/12/17/opinion/sunday/the-tent-cities-of-san-francisco.html?_r=0. I found it after the visit, but it helped explain a lot of what we had seen on the train on the way in and on Bus 31..

We checked out the piers and walked along the sea walk corridor (The Embarcado) to Pier 39. Tourists everywhere. I caught the tram - the others walked. We were approached by beggars in wheelchairs asking for money 'Money for a Vietnam Vet' 'Any money for a Vet'. At P39 you can see Alcatraz and its is not far offshore - maybe 1.5km or so. You can buy real Hotdogs and book trips across the bay to explore the GG Bridge and nearby small communities in the city like Sausalito. Coit Tower stands on a nearby hill and is the notable landmark. I wanted to go on a boat, but the girls were not keen. The Pier has buskers. But some are not very good and clearly can't play, but still try to. Sad to see older men reduced to this. The seals at P39 fight with each other and wow the gathered crowd.

The next day it rained - heavily. We decided to go walking. The Golden Gate park is a bout 2 blocks from our AirB&B so we walked. First to the Arboretum - we saw a lovely small hummingbird in the rhododenrons outside and then a butterfly repository and wonderful arrays of native plants. And it kept raining and we went outside and got wet. SF has many New Zealand native trees along the roads and in the park. Pittosporums, Flax, Pohutukawa, Dodonea etc. It wasn't home, but we must be getting closer! We made it to the De Jong Art Museum. And it rained some more. We had an early dinner at the cafeteria and then headed for home. And it rained some more and we got wet through some more - but we were happy.

The Ferry Building at Pier 1 on the Bay

Inside the Ferry Building - The Plaza. All types of food and wares to buy

Coit Tower built in 1933 as part of a beautification bequest

On the Pier 1 and a half. True, 1 and a half!?

On the tram

P39 Seals

Sylvie and Ute in the GG Park Arboretum with flowers and butterflies (above)

Entry to San Francisco

We headed from Sacramento into San Francisco on the train. The rural areas were attractive and well kept. Fruit trees in orchards along the way. The railway line was dirty and full of rubbish especially as we got closer to the city and adjacent freeways. We could see homeless people sheltering..living.. next to rivers and at the back of businesses. Some had tents with other blankets, cardboard, clothes strewn and tarpaulins. We had long waits to cross bridges and enter our end stop Emeryville. The Bay was at low tide and we could see again a lot of rubbish in the bay - metal, tyres, plastic - and it needs a good clean.

What a trip. We disembarked at Emeryville, CA. bang on time. In fact the whole train trip was pretty much on time - despite some delays here and there. Amtrak did well and their staff were superb. Well worth a trip with them. We had booked and got a coach transfer to downtown SF. Good move. There was a disturbance at the departure terminal as one of the customers disagreed with his terms of carriage re baggage - oh well. The bus driver was unflappable and resilient. He survived the tirade and then took us into SF in rush hour traffic: 5 lanes in and 5 lanes out and ALL chocker with cars. The traffic in SF on and around the main arterials and in the city center seems bonkers.

Somehow we found an extra bus type lane and progressed way faster than the private vehicles. The driver treated us to some of his life story along the way and his discussions with his wife. Memorable! He dropped us in the Bay terminal and told us that we were to take the 38 bus to our AirB&B. The terminal was all go with commuters everywhere. Hold the head together! Ask a local? Yes we did. It turned out there is a 38 and a 38A - the latter was the one we needed. It was full and busy with characters and commuters. The bus driver was fast on the accelerator with no room to do so and was heavy on the break. We were sea sick after a few KM. 

I was navigating with Google Maps. No worries its only two and half blocks from the stop to our accomodation. But we forgot this is SF and the map is not flat. The last block was uphill and Ute and Sylvia coped woman-fully as they halled our gear - the heavy stuff of 3x50lb bags - plus the carry on (me). Puffing we got to the accomodation - and couldn't get in. Our password didn't work@#? We got it in the end and fell on to the couch. Our land lady had left us a Bottle of Wine for welcome.

Nevada into Northern California

The Nevada desert is very dry with little settlement, low scrub and bare earth. Reno is on the western edge of the desert before the train enters the Truckee River Valley - a conduit to California across a snowy pass c. 1900 m. Northern California has many fur trees on steep hillsides. The snow decreased as we moved through hills to the flat plain around Sacramento. The whole area was lush and very green. Oranges and pip fruit on the plains and what looked like rice near Sacramento.

The Nevada Desert

Town of Truckee in western Nevada. Check out the pigeons sitting on the roof of the warmest room

Northern California

California Zephyr Two

Frozen Upper reaches of the Colorado River

Rocky Mountains in Fraser Winter Park Area North of Denver

Ski Resort Area approx. Granby near Denver towards Upper Colorado River Valley

Upper Colorado River Canyon with freeway inserted in narrow canyons

South Central Utah Desert

Ruby Canyon Rock Formations

Frozen Upper Colorado River Canyon

Ruby Canyon Mid Colorado River

Ruby Canyon Mid Colorado River

California Zephyr

Architects in Chicago

Chicago's main Union Station

Leaving Chicago in the snow en route to the Golden State

Just way too early!

We left Chicago in snow on Sunday the 11th. We travelled overnight to Denver after going through Illinois, Iowa and Nebraska. The journey was flat and fast: farm after farm. The Moon glistened in a cloudless sky. We slept overnight in our roomettes. Great experience as you were rocked to sleep. Got colder in the night as the heating didn't work.  All fixed in the morning. Amtrak staff were great. Our attendant, Meklin, was very polite and had a great sense of humour. Denver was fine and cold, surrounded by mountains and sits in a type of shallow basin. We left there early and went into the Rockies. First, high and snowy mountains and then lower hills and canyons. We followed the upper reaches of the Colorado River. Along the way we saw a fox in the snow and two American bald eagles - one in a dead tree (they like them because they can see everything) and one on the ground by the river. The landscape is brown and red and spectacular - especially as we got into Ruby Canyon as we travelled north to Salt Lake City and into Utah. Layers of red sandstone and shale. Our breakfast, lunch and dinner were super and paid as part of the trip. The crew are very professional, but have good humour to stir the tourists up. Sylvie gave a pair of her socks, that she had been knitting, to Cathryn. We got into SLC at about 1030pm. What a light show all the way in for 50 miles. There are many satellite towns(Provo) en route to the Mormon capital. SLC itself looked new and expansive. A beautiful series of c. 2500 m peaks surround the city and were covered in snow. We then slept like logs for our second night: crossing Utah and then into progressively drier desert in northern Nevada. Long periods of.....nothing (civilisation) under a full moon and cold night.

My roomette buddies

Chicago in Transit

We departed Bloomington yesterday from Evermann. All the Fulbrighters are now either at home, in transit or staying somewhere else in the US for a few more weeks. It was very sad to leave everyone. The air is very cold, it's about minus 8.

Now we are in Chicago for 2 nights as we wait to board the train - California Zephyr - to San Francisco. We had a great breakfast this morning meeting up with Nourit and her husband. Next we all went the Art Institute of Chicago. We spent 3 hours there looking around. There were droves of people there. Next we went for some drinks and then to an Italian restaurant for dinner. The snow has come and much more is one the way. Michigan Avenue is the main center city shopping area and has a great light show on for Xmas. There is also a type of Chriskindl Markt and an outside ice skating rink - open air. Here are a few pictures of the visit.

Michigan Avenue as the snow falls

A final look out at our view from the Evermann Apartments toward IU

Buddhist Shrine

Thanks Curt for all your support.

Buddhist Cultural Center

Culture Centre Bloomington

Final Round Up

This Professor Curt Bonk from IU at one of our final functions

Well here we are at the end of our time in Bloomington. We have handed in our final summary and inquiry reports and delivered our presentations to an IU audience. Its been full on and we have been saying goodbye to our friends who have supported us over the last 4 months. What an experience.

Tomorrow, Friday we travel to Chicago before travelling across country to San Francisco and then flying out through LA. Here are some of our final events, places and people. Too many goodbyes to not feel sadness...

This is part of one of the slides in my final presentation. Mr B makes an appearance

Angie is my host teacher from Bloomington High School North - Thanks, Angie!

Louisville

Louisville is in Kentucky and also on the Ohio River. As an aside, did you know Abraham Lincoln was born in KT. I visited here to check out the Muhammad Ali Museum, but couldn't believe it that it was closed on Mondays - the day we visited! Anyway we banked it for another time. The KT landscape is full of low rolling hills, farmland and forest.

The city is older than most. In fact settlement goes back 1000's of years. However, the city was founded in the late 1700's after the King of France at the time. The waterfront area, near the MA Museum has many old buildings and has been rejuvenated with impressive sculptures and structures. It was unnerving to see planes coming over the high buildings (close to them) ready to land near by. Another city with spaghetti freeway junctions to keep you on your toes. A nice feeling here in this city and just a word on local pronunciation. Louisville should be said as 'Lewerville'!

Chattanooga

We left Birmingham on the 27th of November and travelled to Chattanooga. The goal was to cross into our 5th state on our road trip. By a quirk of the map and road network, you have to travel into the far western corner of Georgia and 20 minutes later you go back into Tennessee. I also wanted to see the TN River. Can anyone remember the Choo - Choo song (1941)?

On the way there, the parched landscape gave way to more parched landscape. We passed a smouldering fire on a hill near the freeway. Two days later an area near here (in Gatlinburg) burst into flames and 9 people died as the the result of windy conditions associated with a front coming through with (finally) some rain.

There are paddle boats on the TN River and it is as wide as the Ohio we saw at Evansville. The main bridge is impressive (see below). There is some native American history in the area that would make you weep - in fact the 'Trail of Tears' as it is known. This was a site were 1000's of native American Cherokee Indians were forcibly removed c. 1838-39 along the river and out to western lands like Oklahoma. This is thanks to the 7th President of the USA Andrew Jackson's 'Indian Removal Policy' (1830) and enforced under the Treaty of New Echota. Sylvie and Ute are sitting on seats along a walkway that highlights the history of the area with a series of information panels.

Stattmitte Chattanooga

Chattanooga Architecture

Main bridge at Chattanooga over the TN River

Tourists on the walkway along the TN River

Birmingham Stops: Civil Rights

Birmingham has been at the centre of the Civil Rights Movement and particularly in the late 50's and 60's. There is a Museum to the Civil Rights struggle near the 16th Baptist Church in Birmingham, that is well worth a visit. They have original footage of confrontations - such as the Freedom Riders trip, newspaper articles, personal film reel of peoples' views and much more. The footage of the later 'I have Dream Speech' in DC is empowering and uplifting. I am not American and yet the message and effect of the displays is grounding and emotional. Why can't all peoples be allowed to live their lives in peace with the same rights.

The Baptist Church was the site of many of Rev. Shuttlesworth speeches (The Birmingham airport is named after him) and those of Martin Luther King. These speeches challenged the status quo and gathered the strength of the black community to persist in their passive resistance to segregation despite all provocations; and there were many. The museum is a standard brick building and not worth a pic, but the church is a different matter.

Outside the Museum